INTERVIEW
Meet the Founder & Creative Director
Emilie Messal, interviewed by Bénédicte Burguet-Journé, Fashion & Beauty Senior Editor.
Emilie Messal, the creative soul of the House Emi Mess, not only directs operations behind the scenes, but also allows herself to be unexpectedly captured by the camera lens in its Parisian temporary showroom.
Emilie wears the ALFONSO Kimono, the ODILE caraco & the HOPE culottes
How was your brand Emi Mess born?
Emilie: Emi Mess was born in 2020; the online store was launched fifteen days before the announcement of the first lockdown in France. Emi Mess, a tribute to my grandmother, became my outlet. When she passed away, I sought refuge in work and creation. It was, in fact, the Jeanine collection, named after her, that served as an anchor point and marked the beginning of my stylistic fulfillment. A collection in which I truly (re)discovered and realized myself.
“It was, in fact, the Jeanine collection, named after her, that served as an anchor point and marked the beginning of my stylistic fulfillment.”
Emilie Messal
What are Emi Mess’s values?
Emilie: Artisanal excellence and sustainable development are at the core of our approach. We collaborate with small-scale artisans and workshops located in France, Poland, and Portugal, aiming to elevate both French and European craftsmanship. Each creation is meticulously crafted on-demand to prevent overproduction, thereby celebrating the primacy of quality over quantity.
As for the raw materials, they are rigorously selected and exclusively sourced from France or Italy: Calais-Caudry lace, identifiable by a unique number and woven in France on Leavers looms; woolen satin, emblematic of our House since its inception; mulberry silk crepe, renowned for its quality and durability; along with various other textiles like silk satin, organic cotton jersey, cotton poplin, and fine wools.
Emilie wears the VICTOIRE jumpsuit
Emilie wears the VICTOIRE jumpsuit
What’s your ideal wardrobe?
Emilie: A minimal and monochrome wardrobe. Streamlined designs, free of any ostentatious elements. Elegance, in my view, lies in a certain simplicity. The perfect alchemy is achieved by marrying luxurious fabric with an impeccable cut. I am not a ‘colorful’ person and I prefer black, white, ivory, beige, grey. Comfort and ease in my attire are paramount quests for me. The length and fluidity of the pieces are also pillars of my wardrobe. In short, a monochrome palette paired with ample and airy cuts ensures, in my opinion, the longevity of a wardrobe.
“Artisanal excellence and sustainable development are at the core of our approach. Each creation is meticulously crafted on-demand to prevent overproduction, thereby celebrating the primacy of quality over quantity.”
Emilie Messal
Showroom Emi Mess, Paris
Showroom Emi Mess, Paris
“Elegance, in my view, lies in a certain simplicity.”
Emilie Messal
How do you build your collections?
Emilie: I emancipate myself from trends and the temporal axis. I name each of my collections but do not speak of seasonality.
Why constrain a collection to 6 months and qualify it as Spring-Summer or Autumn-Winter? This would imply an expiration date, an aesthetic lifespan, and therefore a depreciation of the price offered at the given moment. At Emi Mess, each new collection is a continuation of the previous one.
I love the idea that one can combine a design from the Jeanine collection with that of the Introspection collection. Nothing is lost, but everything is transmitted. There is therefore a core collection, around which new designs gradually revolve. We are thus talking about a timeless wardrobe, of seasonless designs that mark my commitment to sustainability.
Each creation signed by Emi Mess constitutes an investment. This work is the fruit of a rigorous process, combining design time, research, and execution. By investing in it, you are acquiring a lasting piece, destined to enrich your wardrobe beyond seasonal fluctuations.
Another essential point is the use of luxurious and therefore expensive material. The scale and natural fluidity of such materials have always enchanted me. Despite their cost, my aspiration is to materialize a conception that is both minimalist and airy, deployed in the fabric. The length or fluidity elevates a silhouette to the pinnacle of elegance.
Emilie wears the ALFONSO Kimono , the ODILE caraco & the HOPE culottes
Emilie wears the CELESTE dress
What path would you like Emi Mess to take?
Emilie: May the name shine internationally in boutiques.
Given the quality of the materials and cuts on offer, it is crucial to be able to touch and try the pieces to fully grasp the real investment they represent. I also place the utmost importance on customer support. We are already making significant strides internationally, providing numerous dedicated and personalized advice, be it in terms of size, design choice, or material care.
I passionately wish for this bespoke service, already digitalized, to also manifest in a physical and intimate setting signed Emi Mess, where the shopping experience would be both creative, innovative, and resolutely human.
Emilie wears the CELESTE dress
Showroom Emi Mess, Paris
Emilie Messal, photographed by Bénédicte Burguet-Journé